I have made another crucial fitting discovery along this years long journey of botched, ill fitting garments. I felt like I had almost worked out my issues but for some reason, my clothes were still turning out uncomfortable, especially my drafted ones. My button down shirts dug into the fronts of my arms whenever I raised them, and my less stretchy t-shirts were so tight across the back and shoulders I couldn't stand to wear them.
I think I have worked it out. BODICE BACKS NEED EASE! WHY IS THIS SUCH A SECRET? This is ESPECIALLY important if you have bad posture. The only mention of this I have seen anywhere is in Nancy Zieman's fitting book (90's edition) and even then it's a casual reference. You'd really think that fitting experts like Patti Palmer would mention it in her many volumes on the subject. In fact, most fitting references I've seen tell you to fit the back with no ease (CB on spine, sleeve seam at your armpit crease).
I learned this by doing a test. I tried on a home made button down, set in sleeve blouse with the sleeves seams removed from just above the armpit to just below the shoulder seam and noted how much gap appeared between sleeves and bodice. I determined 1" was needed at the notch area of each shoulder and installed some gussets. When I tried on the altered shirt, the digging into my front biceps was gone. I could hunch my back and raise my arms without discomfort.
Doing the math, I found that the shirt was 14" wide before the alteration, for a finished with of 16" afterwards. Nancy's book says that standard back ease for wovens is 1 1/2". My back width at armpit creases is 13 1/2 (measured with shoulders slightly rounded). Add them together and you get 15. However, I have bad posture, so I'm happy to add the extra inch across the back. It doesn't add any noticeable bulk or wrinkling and it makes my shirts comfortable. Before this breakthrough, I didn't know a fitted shirt could even BE comfortable. I should do some more testing to see if the extra inch is actually necessary. This was my first try in a trial and error process.
In the past, when I've tried Nancy's method it has not worked out for me and I think this is why. I originally thought the problem was because I am so much smaller than anyone she probably had in mind, but now I don't think so. The only way to know is to do it again.
